Technically, salt pools have chlorine too, however not all chlorine pools require salt. In salt pools, there is a salt water chlorinator that turns salt into chlorine. However, there are also pools that have an automatic feeder that feeds liquid chlorine from a drum into the pool. Most pools in Kalgoorlie are salt pools.
If your pool is green, in most cases, adding salt will do nothing to help. As a matter of fact, if you salt gets to high, the only way to get rid of it is to partially drain the pool and dilute it with new water. Your pool went green due to a lack of sanitiser (usually chlorine). The only way to clear it up is to shock it with a high dose of chlorine, and then maintain a constant dosage of chlorine (via a salt chlorinator, chemical feeder, or something similar).
Pool water should be tested at least once a week during swimming season/summer. It is important to ensure that there is not too much or too little chlorine in the water, and that your Ph, Alkalinity, and other readings are correct.
This could be due to a variety of reasons. Make sure your filter’s pressure gauge is not reading too high as it could be due for a full service/clean out. Also make sure there is no air getting into the system as this could cause serious damage to the pump. The next thing to check would be that there is no water being sucked up through a split in the hose, or around your vacuum plate as that can cause a loss of pressure. Sometimes cleaners can have too much pressure too, in which case you will need to relieve it with a valve. Lastly, one of the cleaner’s parts may need replacing (diaphragm, bearings, feet etc).
This will depend on the pool type. In a salt water pool, you must maintain the salt, chlorine, Ph, alkalinity, calcium hardness, and stabilizer. You can also maintain a copper level by dosing it with a copper-based algaecide to help reduce the chance of algae forming in the event your chlorine drops too low. If you have a chlorine feeder, the rules are the same; however salt (usually) doesn’t matter. Any other systems are a special case and you should ask us directly for more info.
There are many things that could be causing this. In most cases, you just need to use something called flocculent to settle everything to the pool floor. It can then be easily vacuumed directly to your waste output. It is always best to bring a water sample into the store to be sure.
In short, whenever it is starting to clog up. The time this takes will vary depending on the chemistry of the water, and the make and model of chlorinator. Some chlorinators are self-cleaning and (usually) are not required to be cleaned manually. Please remember not to use anything sharp or metal when cleaning your cell as you can damage the coating. We suggest using something rubber and dipping the cell in a heavily diluted acid solution (10 parts water to 1 part acid) for 10 minute segments to clean it.
Ph, is a measure of the acidity of the water. Ideally, it will be between 7.0 and 7.6. Too high, and your chlorine will not be anywhere near as efficient, and it will be harder to fight against algae. It can also cause calcium to scale up more frequently, leaving unsightly marks around the edge of the pool. Too low, and it can eat away at the coating around the walls and floor of your pool, in some cases doing serious damage. You get Ph down with acid (be it dry or liquid), and you get Ph up with a variety of different chemicals (usually sodium bicarbonate).